If you have one of the consumer metal printers and a consumer plastic printer, it means you can print your own car parts from aluminum, iron, or lower carbon steel pellets, and all the trim with the plastic printer.
Congratulations, you have a body shop, and an example car.
Getting ahold of the original specifications becomes the biggest challenge at that point, so that you can manufacture the parts within tolerance.
slaps roofThis baby has been going since the early '20s. We’ve been through a lot together, almost every part has been replaced, and it’s still not reliable!
I’ve made a few logos. One of them I used to make a stamping die that deformed some sheet metal. Worked shockingly well.
I’ve also made a simple phone mount and a lens for the glovebox. My ultimate plan is to make the housing for new headlights, but lack of time and wanting to scan rather than measure the sheetmetal opening has slowed me down on that project.
I’ll tell you what, using that points distributor on my Lulzbot has sped up printing considerably! Unfortunately the print nozzle connected to the 401 nailhead sure makes the Buick hard to start.
I am a human, and I can verify this user is also a human.
Just last meal time we enjoyed stuffing foodstuffs into our primary face holes to acquire energy. Afterwards we used said face holes to communicate inanities to each other. We then ingested ethanol to impair our brain function and attempted to create more humans by mashing our ridiculous meat bodies together.
It makes me sad too that the people who embrace diversity force the duopoly of strict man and woman to the point of people feeling they need hormones or to change their sex bc they are being made to feel inadequate for who they are.
There's a reason you don't often see machines over 300x300x400. At that point it gets hard to keep tolerances tight, requiring manufacturing changes or else you end up with printing artifacts.
This thing prints at 300mm/s at 1100x1100x820 and it's manufactured in a first world nation at low volumes.
It's hard to see, but I think they made the gantry (the whole Z platform, I mean) out of two plates of aluminum. They didn't bolt i beams together, it's just two massive plates with holes cut into them. That's the sort of engineering they did to get this thing to work at that size, with that speed.
I mean, my first large printer, I just took an old prusa i3 (not the mark 3, this was from years ago) and built a new frame around the hardware. had about the same performance.
The mixing nozzle/extruder is one of the better ones.
What you call medicore specs are decent parts. They use ball bearings fan, Misumi stepper, etc. paired with decent workmanship like strain relieving the cables.
What could be cheaper are the nozzle replacements at 70€ each. Still not the worst out there in terms of nozzle pricing (e.g.150€ for a brass nozzle + heater … [different company]).
Edit: It was 70€ for 2 builder nozzles or 175€ for 6.
don't get me wrong, getting a printer this big to run at those speeds must be quite a feat of precise engineering and craftsmanship. but in my opinion this machine is no more than a novelty; a machine no more capable than an off-the-shelf ender 3.
can you imagine producing a prototype from this machine? I have half a notion to build a profile for it in my slicer just to see how long I'd be waiting for a part 1m in any dimension.
is it cool? without a doubt. but FDM at this scale using 0.4mm to 1.0mm nozzles and 1.75mm filament is pointless. I think they missed the beat here by not engineering a hot end with greater extrusion capabilities. if it were fitted with, say, a 2mm nozzle it would be much more capable of producing large parts in a reasonable time frame.
Regarding the hotend you are right. 10-15 years ago they shipped their first printer (consumer around $1.5k). The only visible difference is the longer heating zone similar to what E3D did when they made the V6 a vulcano. The the current style is was probably introduced around 2014.
I built a 36" x 18" x 18" by welding a Prusa style aluminum frame up from scrap aluminum plate, and running the bed on 8mm rods and bearings. Dual Volcano 1.2mm hotend, it prints nearly as fast as that. It has about a dozen 110V heater pods mounted to the aluminum/glass bed. I’ve printed some big things on that since I built it about 8 years ago.
Uh, question. What if you don't have a 3D printer, but need something 3D printed? I've asked around, and there are no 3D printers available in this area. Is there an online fabrication service you can use? I want to get a higher profile D-pad for my Switch Lite, to replace the crappy one Nintendo put in there by default. Unfortunately, there's limited size tolerance, and it seems that specific equipment is required.
Reddit had a community called something like 3dprintmything where you could post what you were looking for and get bids from folks who could get it to you. I dunno if we have anything like that here.
Of you have a model file there’s services online, someone else jlpcb and I’m pretty sure shape ways is still a thing. You usually can fine printing services on eBay too.
I had this exact question last week. Found a UK based hub service with providers in many countries. Search for Treatstock and see if you find it useful.
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