Only a tiny angular movement -> technically a bad case for ball bearings due to lubricant not getting recirculated, but I think the bearings are being run dry in this project anyway (and are under next to no load)
I wonder if sleeve bearings would be cheaper but work as well?
Alternative solution: put a PCB on the left and right sides, then unthreaded SMD soldered standoffs like these as sleeve bearings? I think some are brass under the platings. Exact alignment isn’t necessary as once soldered they won’t move (and you calibrate the device manually afterwards anyway).
Micro:
ATtiny’s are expensive last I checked :P I prefer STC (8051 clones) but even they’re a bit much these days. A padauk or similar would be an extreme.
Staying with the Arduino IDE is probably an attractive goal for ease of development, so staying with the ATTiny might be best.
Comms: I wonder what’s easy to interface with Marlin? Extra UARTs running at very slow speeds (eg a few thousand baud) might work well.
Applications:
Do you adjust filament feedrate on the fly?
is it necessary to delay the adjustments by X cm of filament? Or does it change slowly enough that it’s not an issue?
Detect lumps in filament and pause/alarm prints! I once had lumps of some higher-temp plastic in my roll of recycled PLA, it would jam and cause my prints to fail. Very annoying!
Calibration:
Using drill bits is brilliant, I love it.
Do the magnetic properties of the steel cause issues? What happens if I accidentally magnetics my bits? Perhaps I should only insert them from one particular end whilst calibrating to maximise their distance from the hall?
Screws:
I like using “coarse” 3mm plastic screws. They don’t have a tidy standard like “M3” but you can get them on lcsc and other places. They hold in 3d printed plastic really well, can be removed and inserted dozens of times (surprising but true, even if you cross-thread occasionally) and most of all: don’t need brass inserts!
Apologies if some of this was answered in the video. I’m sorry Mr presenter but you waffle more than I do :P so I skipped a few bits.
Try PROBE_CALIBRATE in the Console. Use a piece of paper, it should fit between nozzle and bed, you should be able to move it with slight resistance. Save it with SAVE_CONFIG.
Not sure if it’s available on klipper, but try sending this:
M211 s0
This is the marlin gcode for turning off the software endstops which prevent you from going negative. (You turn it back on with S1 for normal printing.)
To calibrate z offset, set it to zero, home z, then move the nozzle to where you probed, read the nozzles position (mine is about -2.5) and set that as your offset.
You can check status of the software endstops by sending just m211… if it’s in klipper it should return something.
If it’s not in klipper there should be something similar.
Oh, good point. It would be at the Top If it was a traditional core xy. Maybe this is just a marketing thing that somebody photoshopped. But that doesn’t make a whole lot of sense, when they could just take a picture. Maybe it’s a corexy but the nozzle is the part that goes up in the bed is stationary like in a delta?
Wtf, you can’t view things chronologically on Twitter now? I clicked in to see if they had a follow up video, and it’s all randomly jumbled stuff over a three year span.
I’ve heard that things are different if you’re not logged in. IDK, I’m always logged in. I always have chronological timeline on and it looks that way to me.
As someone who owns an Ender 3 v2, a Bambu p1p and an Anycubic Mono 4k, here are my thoughts… If your goal is to print and paint tabletop minis, you do not want an Ender, SV06, or even a Bambu labs printer. Even if you swap out the nozzle for a smaller one, paint and washes WILL absolutely show layer lines, unless you’re willing to do hours of post processing, filling, filing and sanding. FDM is not your friend in this regard. You can, by all means, get acceptable quality prints if you’re willing to spend months calibrating, tuning, failing and burning through filament with printers in your price range, especially once you start upgrading / fixing your printer (ask me how I know). If, on the other hand, tabletop minis aren’t your main goal and more functional parts, or larger decorative pieces are what you’re after, I cannot recommend an FDM printer enough. Cost savings on filament vs resin, speed (kind of), selection and community support are light years beyond the SLA / resin printers. I would try to avoid the cheaper Ender printers however, as other have stated and I can attest, you will be spending a lot of time calibrating and troubleshooting, and eventually throwing money at it.
Sounds like you might want to check out something from maybe Elegoo, AnyCubic, or Photon: Resin printers are unrivaled when it comes to detail/minifig printing.
Resin printers are also much easier to assemble and calibrate.
Keep in mind that you’ll also need to buy or build washing and curing stations and set aside funds for the resin itself too. When working with resin, personal protective equipment and ventilation is also very important.
With diamondback nozzles you need to reduce the printing temp compared to what you had on your brass nozzle. I have the same exact setup as you, mk3s with 0.6mm diamondback nozzle and it’s working fine with stock settings but a bit lower temp . Stringing is really an issue for me though.
What layer height are you printing? I usually go for 0.4mm.
Make sure you change the specified nozzle size in the printer’s settings (not just slicer settings). That matters for the stepper scaling.
Consider you are now extruding a larger volume of filament through a larger nozzle. The reduced amount neckdown from filament size, and larger volume of plastic to cool, means you also need to now print at a LOWER temperature than you would with a 0.4 nozzle, else the plastic will be too liquid and want to run out of the nozzle faster than the filament is pushing it. You also now have more plastic mass pushing against the surface tension, and the increase mass can also not solidify on the part surface fast enough and want to droop over the edge. Back it down to 230c, or even as low as 220c, as well as increase your part fan max speed. See if that improves things.
I got PETG working on my Mini clone by basically just switching to 0.6 nozzle profiles from the wizard and using the generic PETG profile.
But, if you’re new to PETG, know that it gets real moisture sensitive, real fast. Sounds like you might benefit from trying to dry the filament out, check the web for more on that.
After making sure the filament was dry and that my initial layer is good, because changing nozzles means you need to fine tune the z offset again, I would print a retraction tower test and dial in retraction length settings.
Z was recalibrated already. I’ll try a 50c bake for a few hours to get rid of moisture.
Ordinarily, I’d expect to see evidence of bubbling/snapping at the nozzle as water boils out while laying down plastic. No obvious signs of that though.
Stringing and nozzle buildup are the general signs I get with petg being damp, extreme cases it’ll have noticeable bubble, I’ve found that I need to run 12+ hours at 54c to dry it sufficiently, even on relatively fresh spools depending on the supplier, age etc. I also recommend securing your spools if they’re paper based, had the adhesive melt on one and the entire thing fall to pieces, I just rewound it onto an empty plastic spool I had.
Edit. I just looked at the pics, yeah it also looks like you have some overexrusion, I tend to slightly underextrude petg because of nozzle buildup. I’d start with the standard prusa profiles and tweak from there, generally had good luck modifying the prusament profiles to work with other filament.
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