3dprinting

Downloaded from printables.com/…/437536-floating-plastic-ducks

Here is my first published print. It’s 3D printable wire duct. Working in industrial environments I’ve always leaned toward using wire duct for wire management. I couldn’t find any I liked so I set out to make my own....

And the power panic resume didn’t work :(. This was also my first try at manually changing filaments for multiple colors, waste of effort and filament lol.

Sounds pretty good! It’s printed out of PHA (polyhydroxyalkanoates). This is a food safe naturally occurring material synthesized by bacteria, and it is fully biodegradable in a reasonable time span, in any biome, with no microplastics. Design from SolidZone, material from Filaments.ca Regen collection. Once the world figures...

The print didn’t finish because of a corrupt file apparently (that’s what the printer told me). I’m wondering what causes that big gap between the layers.

I’ve just finished tweaking this Leman Russ proxy, inspired by the very original model released for Epic back in the 80s. It’s designed to be easy to print in FDM (no supports required for printing), the one pictured was printed on a stock Ender 3....

I’ve read in several places that using back off speeds and clean nozzles can help. I’m running with a new nozzle. Travel speed 150, retraction speed of 20, print speed 50. I think some of these are just defaults with cura 5.4 but I get the same thing with a higher retraction speed. What else should I look at?

I tried just about every suggestion here, but still couldn’t get an airtight print. This is transparent PLA. I’m going to play with my speeds and overlap to try to get it clearer, but it was dimensionally accurate and completely sealed the first try....

It’s nothing to brag about, really, I’m just stoked that I have the bed and cura settings dialed in (finally!) that I have no flaws on my grid prints....

Recently my daughter has started getting into playing the ukulele, I ran across the instructables post and it seemed like a pretty straightforward project, so I went for it. Video of it playing (terribly) in the substack post. I hope you all enjoy the read....

Was gifted some old lights that were designed to be stuck into holes in wood. Didn’t want to drill holes that big into my kitchen cabinets, so I designed and printed these holders that can be screwed to the cabinets and hold the lights. Also the lights are surrounded by it, so they don’t glare. Here are the results:...

cross-posted from: lemmy.world/post/2026026...

https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/2e682676-665d-4d25-b02e-50ece4fc6078.jpeg...

See attached photo for the results of the bed levelling test using superslicer’s calibration test....

This is the base of a pumpkin. There is a little support where the over hang is a bit much to start. How did I get great smoosh on the support but not the first layer of the actual print?! They’re the same layer!

Ive been trying to get my 3D printer to print properly since upgrading my Ender 3 Pro with an all metal direct drive hot end. I calibrated my esteps perfectly and they’re spot on, beds leveled although there is a bit of a dip in the middle, and my slicer has the right settings for this PLA that is new and just opened from the...

cross-posted from: lemmy.ca/post/3902002...

Bring my buddy at work

Printed with two PETG filaments on a glass bed with hairspray. Printed the black lines (with a custom end code that doesn’t turns off motors) then printed the white over it in a separate gcode (also with custom start with no homing). It even allows me to go with an exact and cut off hairs and blobs before laying the white....

How is this possible even with abl? I dont’ get it…

Not sure if mini gaming and resin prints are welcome here, but I’m trying my hand at printing an extra-galactic space bug army and this is my first finished print. Printed on my anycubic photon ultra D2 in anycubic’s craftsman DLP grey resin.

i.imgur.com/yzJg1ne.jpg...