I know what you mean re: some detail loss, I’m talking about perimeter lines that just outright look like they were gouged out with an ice pick. It’s really bad.
I’d love to know if you find out anything that helps, I have a similar issue with PETG where the nozzle clogs up during 50% of filament changes. I have to completely dismantle the head to clear the blockage. It’s incredibly frustrating
dry the filament - most filament is wet even if it is brand new
calibrate flow rate
calibrate first layer (nozzle height)
I rarely deviate from Prusa Slicer’s built in profile for Prusament and have great results. I would try drying the filament first if everything else is working well.
Interesting - I’m using the stock values for feedrate (max 200 mm/s for XY; 12 for Z; 120 for E; no min feedrate specified), but those are probably tuned for the stock hotend and I can imagine they probably differ for the Revo.
The only thing I can find for the Revo that seems like it would give the numbers I need is this page which talks about max , but that’s different than feed rate (I’d imagine). The linked calculator puts my settings well within standard limits.
I can’t seem to find anything else online about it - is it just bringing the XYE values down via trial and error, or is there some formula I can use to calculate the correct feed rate?
I have a MK3S and a MK3S+, one with a stock nozzle and one with a Revo. I print the same gcode on both machines and haven’t seen a need to tweak the settings for the Revo. Have you tried slicing with the default settings for Prusament PETG in Prusaslicer?
Yeah, originally I had kept all the settings stock but I was having issues with bed adhesion and stringing when I swapped to a different PETG brand. I played with my extrusion rate until that other filament (Overture PETG) printed mostly okay… but honestly that filament still gave me issues on the first layer (mostly edge curling on the bed) so I just ate the extra cost and swapped back to Prusament.
I suppose it probably couldn’t hurt to try a print with all the stock settings just to rule things out.
I would say anything but this one if you’re looking for a printer as a tool. My mp select mini v2 has been wonderful for me but thats because I wanted to learn electronics and have 3d printing be my hobby. Not have it as a tool.
This printer has a mandatory bed rewiring that if not done can cause a fire or the printer to lock up. Has a odd z-axis screw that needs to be replaced as it has weird magic numbers to work with for nonstock firmware, and the board causes the motors to be incredibly loud. A bed plate that is recommended to have a glass plate added to it for adhesion and to prevent warping as it’s only 1mm thick. And a very limited 120mm build volume.
I love this thing, it taught me soldering, it taught me about electronics and voltages, how to repair and tune a printer. The fact that the motors didn’t make the printer loud but stepper drivers do. How fusion 360 and sketchup work. Plus the amazing part of gcode changes like arc overhangs.
I’m finally starting to be very happy with mine but its a ship of Theseus situation now.
I’m currently building a voron and utilizing my printer and my coworkers stock ender3. And tbh I love the ender3. Its great, and at your budget price range it’ll do most things. $100 won’t be great for anything safe to use resin wise. So before you make a jump for ender3 look up the differences between fdm and resin prints as ender3 is fdm.
You won’t get a good printer for doing minis for $100. Just the extra supplies that go with safely resin printing would blow out your budget. Even if you do find a decent $100 resin printer.
I don't feel like I've seen armature (SCARA?) Based 3d printers in this scale before. I imagine it might be due to it losing reach as it goes on comparison to a gantry? At least without some sort of rising mechanism.
My guess is cost and size. Those robots aren’t cheap and need a cell around them (the yellow device screwed to the table edge). To make it worse as they put a lot of weight on a small footprint you might need to locally reinforce the foundation. Additionally, the printer needs likely 2x or even more floor space compared to the build plate/print volume.
They do exist. For example, a maker space in southern Germany has one of those on display. Not due to it being practical but because they got their hand on a robot and tinkered with it.
im looking into making mini figures and painting them
Boom, right there should limit your section to SLA/resin printers, not FDM as most people here are suggesting. At $100 budget you’re down in the absolute basement of printers, and will have to find a machine on sale. Good news for you is that this is the month of sales (Black Friday month). You are looking at either an Anycubic Mono (out of production, I think) or Mono 2 when they go on sale, or mayby an Elegoo Mars - I’d expect to see it between $99-119 sometime this month. (there’s a monoprice mini SLA printer for $70 out there, but I don’t know how good it is)
There are two things to know about resin: the liquid used is toxic, so someplace with ventilation and a supply of cheap latex/vinyl/nitrile gloves are a must, as is a workspace which can be easily cleaned (they sell silicone mats…its a good idea; you might try ordering misc stuff from TEMU for your accessory list to save some cash) and a roll of paper towels is going to be necessary. The second is that standard resin requires 95% or higher isopropyl alcohol (IPA) to clean the prints, and to clean up the machine parts. That can get expensive, too - so SKIP IT and get Water Washable resin. It will cost more, but the ease (and lower odor) in clean up will be worth it, especially if your parents would rather you not be slinging flammable IPA around the house.
You do NOT need a dedicated wash and curing station. It’s a luxury you can’t afford, so just skip it (for now). There are lots of videos about how to clean parts using a two-bin or three-bin method and they just use cheap dollar-store plastic bins or used buckets (do not use tupperware you eat from…water washable is still toxic, okay?). Then, just set your prints in the sun for a few minutes - it even works on a cloudy day (clouds only block a fraction of UV).
You should be able to make table-top sized miniatures for painting in one go, or make them as two or three parts for bigger models. The detail you get out of an SLA printer will be worlds better than an FDM (extrusion) printer and require a lot less sanding, filling, and misc post-processing prior to painting.
Quick edit: @QuietStorm - Creality is also having a sale this month and there are two SLA printers on sale in the $99 range. The nicer (bigger) one is currently out of stock, but you might check back and see if it comes back in. Nearly all of the small SLA printers in this range are very similar, though you should read up in their forums just to see if there are some crazy problems everyone is having with a specific model (no news is probably good news).
Great advice. I would add one thing, people upgrade their printers all the time and sell the budget ones they started with on eBay/FB Marketplace, etc.
I wouldn’t recommend water washable even though it’s cheaper not using IPA it’s more cumbersome and possibly expensive to dispose of it. You can just dump it down the drain
Normally, I would agree. For a teen living at home and (based on the price range) without a dedicated space, I think it’s the preferable of the two options. Having known someone severely burned by an errant spark around IPA, and with the added complications of disposing of contaminated IPA, waterborne is the lesser of evils. I 100% agree that I should have pointed out that “water washable” doesn’t mean rinse/clean off in a sink that leads to a private septic or public treatment system.
Double your budget at least or be willing to learn the ins and outs of how 3D printers work at a basic level Be sure to check out the Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors on YouTube if you are into minis
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