Wow. I guess you use larger nozzles for something like that? How do you get an extruder to keep up with the flow rate? Also, this is my first post on Lemmy.
On my VC3 500 I use a rapido with a 0.4mm. My default PLA settings are 300mms with 10kmms2 acceleration. I’m not sure about OP but for me the larger build volume lets me kick off a full plate of parts and come back a few hours later. Gets pretty good quality but at that size/weight you do get some ringing on the parts.
Ayy another vc3500 haver. I use a .6mm bondtech CHT volcano, but honestly I’ve been having trouble getting past 30mm^3 per second, which is unfortunate. My main goal with it is actually giant parts, but the mass production thing is pretty cool too.
It is tough building stuff like mounting arms to hold weight without deforming. Most of the time it is best to make joints that only need 1 dof each. Like this is why you see the parallel mechanisms used for articulated desk lamps; each joint only has 1 dof but a bunch are combined. You’ll see something similar with computer monitor arms.
Like this joint has a recess in the top and bottom for washers with a bolt passing through the middle. It may seem like the bolt through the middle would be what holds the load and any slop in the joint, but this is not the case. The bolt is only holding the compression of the assembly and it is the gap between the washers that controls the slop and weight. It took me a few iterations to imitate this type of joint with a print.
Ultimately, that arm needs another iteration to make it even more rigid, but it is usable like this. That arm is almost 5ft long with a 24in monitor on it.
Wow that’s gigantic! And here I thought my 350mm^3^ printer really filled up the room. No comparison at all! Are you able to get this beast through your doorways?
The number of photos I’ve seen of completely melted filament rolls, due to either poor oven thermostats or inattentive users … I cannot endorse this technique.
If you’re on a budget, probably better to just power up your heated bed, with a box over top, and dry your spool inside there.
Repurposed food dehydrators seem to rate highly, if you can find a used one for cheap.
I ended up biting the $40 bullet and grabbing a Filadryer S2 when it was on sale.
I’m running an Ender 3. Although through the 3.5 years I’ve had it it’s had so many parts changed and upgraded it’s turning into a real ship of Theseus. Upgraded the mobo, hotend, direct drive extruder, raspberry pi for octoprint, enclosure, and bltouch for bed leveling.
It’s definitely been a rewarding hobby, learning to use fusion and building things from scratch.
Any user could just put in the full URL of your community to subscribe like I did, but this is a tumultuous time. Just trying to make things as easy as possible for the torrent of new users coming in :)
Honestly you can get such nice prints out of cheap printers with a little bit of tinkering nowadays the Voron printers are pretty much designed to be overkill for most stuff.
That’s true. And I have been able to get nice prints out of it. But at least with my Ender 3 it feels like a constant uphill battle to keep it in working order.
I’ve probably spent 72 hours total trying to fix the current problem I’ve been having with mine, and at a certain point I’d rather that I would have gotten a more robust one to begin with, even if that means an over kill printer.
Granted, these are very delicate machines that are always going to inevitably break down regardless of model. It still would be nice to have one that takes longer to break down.
Yeah, I heard that from some people about their Ender.
My Prusa MK3 is approaching the fifth year now but it still prints like on day one. Sure, it’s getting louder and is in desperate need of some lubrication but is still prints like a champ. In fact, it printed all the parts for my Voron 2.4 inside of a cardboard box. First time printing ABS as well.
ABS is such a pain to print with, even after all the upgrades I’ve done. I still have the majority of the roll I started with. I’ll probably never get through it.
Once I get my printer fixed I’m sticking with PLA for a good while.
Yeah, PLA prints very easily compared to ABS. I was also struggling a lot when I started using it for the Voron parts.
Worked out pretty well with a cardboard box as enclosure though. Just barely 40°C but that was enough to keep the prints on the plate.
The Voron prints ABS with absolutely no issues. PLA was a pain at first due to heat creep but I swapped to a different hotend and now PLA also prints like a charm.
Once I get my printer fixed I’m sticking with PLA for a good while.
I have an enclosure for mine, still never was able to print it very well. Probably mostly because of how hot ABS needs the nozzle to be. It seems that 260 is a big ask for my printer even with the all metal hot end.
Out of interest, what’s broken on your Ender?
It’s underextruding, but only on every nth layer, with a small bit of variance.
I’ve tried replacing the hot end, nozzle, the top half of the extruder, calibrating the extruder, using a different slicer, different filament, different slicer settings.
This time around I’m just done trying to fix it, so I’m probably gonna drop it off at a local repair shop to see if they can figure it out. From what I’ve told them, they think the extruder motor is dying. And maybe they’re right, but I just don’t have the time right now to troubleshoot it further myself.
Here is my current setup. It’s an old Ender 3, has a BLtouch, direct drive dual gear, all metal hot end, and an extension cable for the control panel. I have an adapter as well to use it as a plotter.
As with most 3D printers it seems, it is currently broken lmao.
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