burntpotatoes,

cheapest bottom of the barrel pla, works well enough, and if it doesn’t atleast it only costs 11 ish $ per kilo

pineapplelover,

Where do you find your cheap pla? Cheapest one I could find are $14

burntpotatoes,

diff country, im in SE Asia

Anticorp,

eSun PLA+. It’s easy to print, looks great, and is decently strong for most uses.

Rolive,

I’ve been using Jupiter PLA for most prints. I try to use PLA whenever possible because of the lower environmental impact.

It’s the cheapest brand available where I live.

MrSlicer,

Whatever is cheapest on Amazon. I rarely get a bum roll. Although I did 2x in the last couple of years. Both petg wound too hot I think. It was like a brick of petg in the center.

EmilieEvans,

My custom blend of SLA-resin has a matt surface with dark metallic color. Also, my most hated filament as it requires a deep clean between prints. FDM? FormFutura SBC: Gave me headaches but that’s noticeably higher transmission compared to other “transparent” filaments.

PukeNukem,

Matte resins definitely print nicer in my experience. I haven’t tried too many SLA resin bands I mostly just stick to Siraya Tech fast resin because it’s low odor. When you blend your resin do you put it in a new bottle every time or do you reuse bottles?

EmilieEvans,

Reuse the bottle of the base resin. It’s mixed from base epoxy resin with additives and pigments. The issue in particular is caused by the pigments and with no good solution as everything you can do is slowing down the process. A printer that circulates it without dead spots could fix it but you might run into issues where it “sticks” to the FEP making it worse. An upside-down SLA printer could resolve the issues but they are rare and expensive. After all there probably was a reason why you can’t buy it. You can do more stupid mixtures/washing/curing for example an soft-touch surface with a hard resin but they all fail in some regard making them not feasible (that particular had just awful mechanical properties. Worse than expected.).

Bartlebad,

For all the terrain printing I’ve done over the past 3 years, I’ve stuck to plain Overture PLA. In the Prusa printers I use, they’ve been the most reliable with almost no stringing.

rikudou,
@rikudou@lemmings.world avatar

Have you tried Prusament? How does it compare?

Bartlebad,

I have! It’s just as good, but a little pricier and takes longer to get shipped to me.

SeeJayEmm,
@SeeJayEmm@lemmy.procrastinati.org avatar

I’ve had a lot of luck with eSun.

NiyaShy,
@NiyaShy@kbin.social avatar

Getting most of my filament from DasFilament because they are a local (German) company and offer masterspool refills. They "only" sell PLA, PETG and TPU, but so far I haven't messed with other types yet, so that's OK.

morbidcactus,

I love prusament filaments but with shipping and duties I don’t keep them stocked. I’m not sure who supplies it but I’ve had solid results out of spool3d.ca abs and petg filament, also really like Canada Filament’s carbon capture PETG, stocking up on more of that and the carbon capture pla. Had really nice results out of Worday ABS as well.

kale,

I use three regularly: Polyterra PLA for low cost filaments, Polylite PLA Pro for my fastest prints or prints needing a little strength, and Polylite ASA for anything functional, for outdoors, or for high temp. The ASA surprised me with how easy it’s been to print. I’ve printed with 3DBestX ASA I think, and it’s OK, but not nearly as easy as the Polylite ASA. I bought a roll of ApolloX ASA recently but haven’t tried it yet.

If I need PETG, ESUN PETG prints the easiest, I’ve found. Not as easy as ASA (I have a heated chamber), but it’s the least aggravating PETG. ESUN PLA+ prints great, but is a bit more shiny than the Polylite PLA Pro, so it’s a personal preference. The ESUN PLA+ has slightly higher temperatures and I’ve had one print failure recently from poor layer adhesion when I was pushing it as hard as I could with print speed.

For my Monoprice mini select with a V6 hot end, I use whatever PLA is on sale. Right now Amazon Basics silk PLA, and two rolls of elegoo PLA. I rarely print high demand parts with the Monoprice. Right now it’s only printing 18650 holders for a cell balancer I’m building.

ScottE,

Hatchbox has been my primary brand in the 5 years I’ve been printing - I’ve had great success with their PLA, ABS, and PETG.

Aux,

I use Copymaster3D PLA most of the time. It’s cheap and locally made. It’s not the best (some colours have some inconsistency issues and white PLA has some crap inside), but it works for prototyping and is very dimensionally stable. I also use their Tough PLA for final parts, it’s more expensive, bit it’s very consistent and prints nicely at higher speeds. Actually it’s main issue is that it’s too leaky so you can’t print it slow - it just sips on its own.

motsu,

Polymaker polyterra. I especially love their army blue and black filament. They print nice and matte, and the colors print almost identical between their different colors. I always thought polymaker was a more expensive brand, but polyterra hits that 20usd/kg for pla price point that hatchbox and other budget filaments used to dominate

PukeNukem,

I like the polyterra line too. My favorites are the cotton white and sapphire. I’ll have to give the army blue a try sometime. I’ve tried a spool of their polycarbonate and it was nice though difficult just due to the nature of polycarbonate. I also used to think polymaker was expensive brand but I’m so glad it’s affordable.

rambos,

Just went from azurefilm to polimaker politerra recently and its amazing

kale,

The muted red polyterra feels like terra cotta a little. The matte additive is really dense, so parts feel heavier than other parts (polyterra PLA and PETG are the two densest non-filled filaments I’ve used). Whatever the additive is, it also increases the strain to failure by a lot, so it’s less brittle.

My only complaint about polyterra is that it is not as good at layer adhesion as the regular PLA/PLA+. I can’t push my printer to the limit on speed without getting a part that wants to separate at the layers, so I have to slow the print speed and slow the fan down, and I usually print a little warmer.

I’m finishing up my first Polyterra PLA+ print right now. It has less of the additive so it’s advertised as a satin finish more than a matte finish.

For what it’s worth, I just bought my first 3kg roll of filament for a big project, and I chose polyterra PLA in black.

PukeNukem,

I usually print Polyterra PLA at 210C but I had some issues with it lifting off the glass bed on my Enders. I never tried printing it below 205C and I have yet to try it on my Neptune 3 max so maybe the lifting issue won’t be a big deal with the PEI sheet bed. It does kind of feel like a terracotta texture which makes me want to try that red out now.

I wonder if I tried printing it at even lower temperatures if I would also get the delamination issue like you had.

It’s been a while since I bought from Polymaker and I don’t remember seeing that satin finish PLA+ line before but I’m definitely going to look into it. I also saw they are now offering dual color Polyterra matte filaments which is super cool.

Bishma,
@Bishma@social.fossware.space avatar

Most of my PLA is Printed Solid Jesse. It’s $20/kg filament that prints like $30/kg filament.

GodofShame,
@GodofShame@lemmy.world avatar

I’ve been really liking kingroon lately

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