I noticed this as well, made me focus on writing properly rather than ball pen chicken scratches. The problem is it is really easy to get more and fancy inks 😂.
There are two possible reasons (probably more) that the pen may actually be helping your handwriting here:
You're probably putting less pressure onto the page, which means that you're not fighting against that friction every time you need to change direction.
Your pen seems to lay down a pretty thick line - that's something that can often make the imperfections in one's handwriting less visible. (That's not intended as a dig at your handwriting, in fact it can be a useful thing to keep in mind if you're writing something like a birthday card where you get one shot at making it look good).
I don’t know where you are based, but if in the USA be aware that Sailor pens have a dramatic markup over the home and other foreign markets. I generally advocate buying local but both my Sailors have come from abroad and saved me a lot of money. Actually I probably wouldn’t have brought them at all if paying US prices. My Pro Gear Imperial Black came form Amazon Japan for $200. The same pen is $470 plus tax in the US! My Cult Pens exclusive Gunmetal PGS Midnight Sky was $180. Regular PGS run around $220 and that is without the plating on the Cult Pens edition
Buying from abroad has its risks and drawbacks but when using a reputable seller it can save you $$$. The Gentleman Stationer discusses the situation here in his re-review of the Imperial Black. gentlemanstationer.com/…/battle-scars-revisiting-…
Also be aware that the 21k nib, while having very little flex, is actually quite soft and easily sprung or bent if roughly handled.
Did you keep your Visconti Bronze Age? That is one of the few pens left on my wish list but I know their nib QC is abysmal and if/when I have the funds I know I will have a hard time paying their prices for a pen that I’d probably have to send straight off to a nibmeister.
Thanks for the response. Any particular retailer you would recommend buying from? Is buying from Amazon JP fairly straightforward from the States or do you need a VPN or something? I'm not at all opposed to buying abroad, I've bought several of my more expensive pens from La Couronne du Comte (R.I.P.) and Appelboom since they used to include VAT in their MSRPs and remove it if you shipped to the States (and often with free, very fast shipping thanks to DHL! Just had to wait weeks or months for stock sometimes). Sadly this doesn't seem to be the case anymore.
I'm used to all manner of gold and titanium nibs so not too worried about man-handling the nib.
No I don't have either Visconti anymore. I initially got the Bronze Age in EF, second-hand, and unfortunately the vacuum piston got snagged while cleaning one time and totalled the nib. I bought a BB unit to replace it, and that wrote TERRIBLY. I had bought the Dark Age brand new in the meantime (with an F nib) that also wrote terribly. I sent that one for work, but by the time it came back I realized I hated so many things about the pens (the capping mechanism can become mushy for seemingly no reason, with no way to ever clean it out or recover it, you never know how much ink you have, filling is an absolute pain unless you pay extra for the special inkwell, and if you use it you soak ink in to the section which will slowly leech out on to your fingers indefinitely, no matter how much you clean it, thanks to the weird way the porous material interacts with temperature and moisture) that I traded them both. The Dark Age at least wrote well by that point, but I had to sell the other as known needing work. Yes you should unfortunately budget to send a Visconti to a nibmeister if you decide to buy one (and probably buy a tipping size large to make sure it arrives with enough material to work with - Italian sizing is incredibly unreliable). The QC really bothered me but the more new pens I bought the more I realized essentially all of them have terrible QC out of the box.
Both Nakayas I've had ran dry after a page or two unless the feed is under pressure. I have had to send half my (new) Montblancs to have nibs replaced, reground, or flow issues solved. The brands I've had the best luck with (bought at least two and had no issues) are Lamy, Pelikan, and TWSBI.
The only pens I still have are:
Conid (currently being modified to take a vintage 1970s 146 nib)
Both Lamy 2000s (one B, one F)
Montblanc 145 (M), 146P (BB, modified), 1960s 149 (EF, flexy, unknown if modified, undisputed king of fountain pens for me), Heritage 1912 (B CI, modified), Slimline (XXF, modified)
Nakaya Decapod (EF, flexy, has issues, don't care enough to fix, but gorgeous)
Pelikan M200 (F), M800 (M)
TWSBI 580 (EF)
Waterman Phileas Blue (M CI, modified but didn't need it, just to add character - my first fountain pen and one of my last gifts from my late mother)
Sounds like your VIsconti experience echos my worst fears. I hadn’t considered the porous nature of the material being an issue for absorbing ink but that would also annoy me greatly. Thanks for the feedback.
In terms of overseas suppliers. Ordering from Amazon Japan was no different to Amazon US or UK. I didn’t even need a to create a new account. When buying from Amazon I normally ensure the seller is Amazon itself rather than a third party to avoid fakes although apparently this isn’t foolproof as Amazon sometimes mixes their own stock with that of third parties (see a recent Pilot Metro post). Cult Pens have been excellent and I’ve use them several times. They left a Lamy nib out of one order I placed but quickly expedited it to me when I contacted them to report it was missing. Their prices are good and you can get free shipping if you spend enough. I’ve also used The Pen Company for one order and they were great. I’ve heard good things about Pensachi but have not personally used them.
Unfortunately prices at Cult Pens and TPC look pretty much identical to USA prices... of course the model I gravitated towards (1911 L Trinity) just so happens to be a USA exclusive also. Ugh.
EDIT: Looks like the Sailor Profit Black Master is basically the same pen and $200 from Amazon Japan. I can live with that. Thanks.
Report back about how you like it when it arrives.
You will get a warning notice with this pen because it is ion plated. Sailor will advise to only use their inks in it to avoid plating damage and early reports from ion plated nib owners did suggest that the plating could be damaged, presumably from non-Sailor ink usage. There has been a lot of speculation about why this happened but a general consensus was that acidic inks could be the issue.
Both my Sailors are ion plated and I have chosen not to stick to Sailor only inks but have resiolved to be be selective about what I do put in it. Pilot Iroshizuku inks are generally neutral to slightly alkaline as are the original Herbin line and the DeAtramentis Document line. Waterman inks can be very acidic so stay clear of them despite their great reputation (Serenity Blue has an acidity similar to vinegar). There are a number of websites that have measured the acidity of popular inks you can reference. Also, a number of forum posts on Fountain Pen Network report and discuss the acidity of specific inks.
Well, mark one for Amazon JP, the pen got here super quick. It's gorgeous. Mark one against Sailor though, they include a single proprietary cartridge and no converter in the box with a $200+ pen?!
Nice, I’m using my lammy today. I’d like to get one with a slightly flat tip so I can write with some slighly more interesting calligraphy. I’ll have to research what to get
Oh, the Vista! Rather than be lured by the many colors of the safari, you have sought out the clarity of the clear. Great choice! Welcome to fountain pens!
Wow, that’s pretty. I’ve been flirting with the idea of buying a fountain pen but I found the good ones expensive considering I rarely even write on paper anymore.
As people have already said, yes that is a Metro. The converter is supposed to be opaque, and you will need to guestimate. It’s not just guesstimating how much ink you have left, it’s also guesstimating if you have filled the pen to the maximum possible. The ink does not get sucked up into the pen as quickly as a piston mechanism, and it’s impossible to see if you have a max fill. A couple of tips since this is your first squeeze converter. I usually squeeze the air completely out before I dunk it into the ink to remove the potential of a few drops of ink popping out of the bottle (especially for Noodler’s and the bottles filled to the absolute max policy). I also leave it in an extra second or two after it seems fully puffed up just to make sure the maximum amount of ink is sucked up. Luckily, this is all much easier with the Metropolitan’s cheaper squeeze filler design. The “premium” one that came with my Cavalier was encased in a metal tube. The squeeze bar was manipulated using a “button” located near the top which made it very difficult to fully compress the sac and see if the sac was completely puffed up. Terrible design.
Robert Oster Smoke Screen - the pictures look great but it’s been boring in every test. It was frustrating because I usually stick with Diamine and felt like wasted money.
I have had some issues with Robert Oster inks and hard starts. In particular, they don’t work well in my Lamy 2000 fine nib and Pilot Prera medium nib pens, whereas a Pilot Iroshizuku ink I bought recently seems to flow a lot better. It’s a shame, because I do like the colours; I might try them in my Kaweco sport pen (which has a wetter medium nib) and see if they flow better.
Midori MD pads with one of their covers work well and aren’t too expensive. Available in A5 and A6 if I recall. Otherwise as already mentioned I like the 90gsm Rhodia or Clairefontaine notebooks. The 80gsm Rhodia paper (found in a lot of their pads) always feels like the backside of the paper has less coating on it and not as enjoyable.
If it’s from St. Louis Art Supply, chances are that pen was tuned by their fountain pen specialist before it went to you. Regardless, I hope it gives you a ton of joy to write with.
Or people like me have Autism and ADHD, this lacking the fine motor control for handwriting.
My “handwriting” ended up with me being the only kid in school that was permitted to hand in all my written work by typing it up on computer and printing it out. In 1990.
I ended up on the opposite side of that. Writing was one of my obsessions growing up, so my cursive is very classic and neat. I need to get back into writing more than work notes, actually.
I haven’t done much of it. I have another Pilot Metropolitan with a medium nib which writes very smoothly. The stub nib isn’t as smooth, although my initial experiments have been on paper that’s not especially fountain pen friendly.
I also notice that I have to write more slowly with the stub nib or I get line widths that vary unexpectedly. Pilot calls it a calligraphy nib and I think it really is, rather than something you’d use for everyday notetaking. Perhaps those whose handwriting is more consistent have better results.
It’s too bad because I very much like how stub nibs let colored inks show. I’ve noticed that with narrow nibs, sometimes a colored ink doesn’t really “read” as colored when you look at it.
I find that they’re great for headings, titles, dates, etc - a little emphasis in my notes. With that said, my pilot metropolitan’s stub nib has also always been really scratchy too, and hard starts a lot. It’s always been one of my most disappointing pens.
One of my favorite stub nibs is a Jinhao 80 (Lamy 2000 clone, usually sub-$10). I swapped out the Jinhao nib for a Lamy 1.1 stub, and it writes like a dream!
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